Pedra Branca McLaren Vale Vintage Fortified 2021
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"Predominantly touriga nacional (with some tinta cão and tinta negra mole), hand picked at around 13.5 Baumé and fermented spontaneously in open-top fermenters before fortification with both aged and fiery youthful brandy spirit. 45g/l RS (considerably less than port’s 100-120g/l). Unique in using Portuguese indigenes without buffering by grenache, shiraz or otherwise. A port for the big dry red drinker, due to its contextual restraint. Far from cloying, it reels off thrilling aromas of cherry pith, blackberry, Chinese medicine, lilac, clove, pepper and suede. The tannins are impeccably hewn, chamois of feel. Real thrust of structure and parry of fruit. Immaculate and impressively long. Kudos!"